2000 Ford Diesel Superduty
Coolant Bypass Filtration

I feel that the cleaner I keep my coolant, the longer my radiator and engine will last (especially the water pump).

To accomplish this, I have installed a bypass filtration system similar to that used on OTR trucks.  I chose to go with a Baldwin filter system, as they are among the very best of filter manufacturers, and they have been providing these for decades.

I put this page together should you wish to duplicate this.

Click on them to enlarge the photos.


From FleetPride ( www.fleetpride.com )
1 ea - B5000 Baldwin filter base
1 ea - B5134 Baldwin filter

From Home Depot:
1 ea - Simpson Strongtie "foundation plate"
Appropriate-size brass hose fittings
Teflon thread-sealant tape

From Hardware store:
Grade 8 bolts, nuts, washers as appropriate, including
   two metric nuts to fit the bumper bolts
Small, fuel-line-size, stainless steel hose clamps
Plastic wire-loom to cover hoses for abrasion protection
Wire ties as necessary

Where I Mounted It






I put this filter behind the front bumper on the driver's side. I used a Baldwin B-5000 filter base and Baldwin coolant filter without "SCA" chemicals. I know, the filter shown is a Fleetguard, and it's also a good filter. The mounting plate is a "foundation plate", found in the Simpson Strongtie section at Home Depot. I enlarged one hole, and drilled another, to mount it on the bumper mounting bolts. I also drilled the three holes to mount the filter base. A couple of large metric nuts and some LocTite secure the plate up behind the left side of the front bumper, and the appropriate grade-8 hardware secure the filter base. You can figure out the hose routing. I used 1/2" hose, properly rated for coolant, but 3/8 would work just as well, and might be easier to find the fittings and route the hoses. I got the barbed brass fittings at Home Depot. Clamp all the hoses using the small fuel-line-size stainless screw-clamps. The filter should get changed initially at about 5000 miles, then every 15-20,000, or when it no longer gets warm while driving.

Coolant Out to the Filter

I used the International's water pump housing's plugged hole to tap into the pressure side of the pump. Note the use of that plastic wire-loom stuff, that Ford uses on everything, added around the hoses for additional abrasion-resistance. Double-clamp the hoses.

Coolant Return to the System

Here's how the other side of the filter returns coolant back to the system, by "T-ing" it into the line into the plastic "de-gas bottle", (the tank with the radiator pressure cap).

The Gunk I've Filtered

This is what was found in the initial filter used.  There's more gunk floating around than I would have imagined.  This sandy stuff is abrasive, and will eventually damage the water pump seal, causing the pump bearing's lubrication to fail. I normally use Baldwin B5134 filters.  These have no chemicals inside them. I maintain the coolant's anti-cavitation chemicals (SCAs) manually with PenCool 3000 (a DCA-2 formulation) and the proper coolant test strips. I could also use Baldwin BW5136 filters, which are pre-charged with 2 units of Baldwin's BTE (also a DCA-2 formulation).

SpringerPop's F350 Page


write: SpringerPop

Last updated 03/23/11