2000 Ford Superduty
Transmission Filtration

I feel that the cleaner I keep my transmission fluid, the longer my transmission will last. To accomplish this, I have installed this in-line filtration system into the transmission cooler lines at the front of the truck. 

I have done this modification to my last three vehicles and have not had a transmission problem with any of them afterwards. The last time I dropped this transmission pan, it was SPOTLESS inside after 45,000 miles on the oil!

Click on them to enlarge most photos.


From Auto-Parts Store
1 ea - 3/4"-16 spin-on filter base ( TransDapt #1028 or equiv )
1 ea - B252 Baldwin filter ( or equivilant )
6 ft - 3/8" transmission-rated ( important! ) hose ( AutoZone 81352, $3.29/ft. )
1 ea - small tube of Loctite thread sealant
10 ea - small fuel-line size stainless screw-type hose clamps

From Home Depot:
1 ea - Simpson Strongtie "foundation plate"
2 ea - 3/8" right-angle brass hose fittings to fit the threads of the filter base
1 ea - 3/8" barbed, hose-to-hose, in-line hose coupler

Hardware store:
Grade 8 bolts, nuts, washers as appropriate, including
   two metric nuts to fit the bumper bolts
Plastic wire-loom to cover hoses for abrasion protection (Harbor Freight)
Wire ties as necessary (Harbor Freight)

Where I Mounted It






The filter base is a standard spin-on base with 3/4" x 16 threads. I use Baldwin filters as I believe them to be the best on the market. The B252 is specified for transmission filtration applications, and has a built-in 20-PSI bypass valve.  At one time I used BT111 filters, but Roland Mueck ( FTE's "Mueckster" ) alerted me to this filter, built specifically for transmission fluid filtration.  You could use a B2 ( or even a Motorcraft FL-1A ) with a 7-PSI bypass valve if you couldn't find a B252.

The plate is a "foundation plate", found in the Simpson Strongtie section at Home Depot. I enlarged a hole and drilled another to mount it on the bumper mounting bolts. A couple of large metric nuts and some Locktite secure the plate up behind the right side of the front bumper.

You can figure out the hose routing. Use the proper hose, rated for ATF! Double-clamp all the hoses using the small fuel-line stainless screw-clamps.

Small neodymium magnets, attached to the filter base plate on the inlet side, collect magnetic sludge the same as the magnet in the trans pan. Better to collect it here, as it's easier to clean off every time you change filters, but this is optional. I've shown small, rectangular ones, and you'll only need a couple of them. They're available from All Electronics, www.allelectronics.com as part number MAG-74. They're fifty cents a piece, so get a few. You'll use them on your refrigerator door, too.

The filter should get changed initially at about 5000 miles, then every 15-20,000, unless you implement this addition at the same time you do a pan-drop, convertor-drain fluid change. Then you could likely go 15,000 miles on the first filter. Be sure to clean and re-use the magnets, too, if you used them.

I have done this mod to my last three vehicles and have not had a transmission problem with any of them afterward.

Tapping into the Cooler Lines

This is where I "tapped in" to the transmission cooler lines to add the external spin-on filter. You're going to need a barbed hose-to-hose connector here, as shown in the bottom center of the picture.

In the photo, the line with the "down" arrow is coming from the transmission. The "up" arrow line is going out to the oil-to-air cooler.

Take the hose loose at the connection to the up-arrow steel line, and add the double-ended barbed connector to the removed hose.  Set aside.

Put a new piece of hose on the steel tube with the up-arrow, and run it up to the "in" of the filter.

From the "out" of the filter, run a hose back down to the other half of the barbed fitting previously set aside.

This method does not put the in-radiator cooler after the filter, however, which may be more desirable in the event of a major catastrophic transmission failure. Note the location of the red filter canister on the other side of the frame rail.

It's a good idea to give the lines some additional abrasion resistance by getting some plastic wire split-looming and running the hoses inside it.

Does it Work?

Draw your own conclusions.

Here is a Blackstone Labs report for the transmission fluid.  Note the "Comments" section.

Blackstone Report

SpringerPop's F350 Page


write: SpringerPop

Last updated 03/02/17